Mount Pulag and the Sea of Clouds

Mount Pulag has been an anticipated goal since the beginning of this year. It never came upon me how much I would want to go to a place (or any place for that matter) just to see a spectacular show of mother nature, that is to witness the infamous "sea of clouds" at the peak of this mountain.

For those who are not aware, Mount Pulag is the third highest peak in the Philippines at 2,922 masl. It is located in Province of Benguet in the Philippines.

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view.
May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. - Edward Abbey

The duration of the hike was only for a weekend but since I was traveling from Singapore, it had to be a four-day journey for me. This was by far the farthest I've traveled with so much uncertainty ahead of me. I welcomed that with open arms, because sometimes, over-planning kills the magic.

I contacted a group organizing the hike who offered meals and tent use for the activity. The trip consisted of a plane ride from Singapore to Manila (3.5 hrs), a night bus ride to Baguio (6 hrs), a jeepney ride to Benguet (3 hrs) before reaching the ranger station, which was the jump off place. Hiking started at 2,500 masl, hike to camp site (2.5 hrs) and finally ascend to summit (1.5 hrs) at dawn just in time to reach the peak to watch the long-awaited sunrise. The trail we took was Ambangeng-Ambangeg.

It was indeed a long journey but surprisingly I never noticed it was that long, especially when you finally witness sunrise at the peak. You will forgive nature for giving you a hard time going up (if you ever did). But we took the easiest trail and Pulag's easy trail is indeed easy in my opinion. It's a walk in the park. It reminded me a bit of the hiking I did at MacRitchie reservoir, only that was 14 km. Hike up to Pulag is only half of that distance only somewhat elevated.

There are three other trails, Tawangan, Ambaguio and Akiki (being the most difficult). I don't mind taking a difficult trail as long as I am capable enough to to take it. As long as I am also able enjoy the hike up. After all, "it's the journey and not the destination." Although I beg to disagree because for this one, it is the journey and the destination.

Despite being a low profile plan, I was thankful for the support of the few close friends I told about it. It was also something I did for myself, to explore a new-found interest and see the world in different perspectives (and heights!). I truly feel that I'm living more when I spend my days outdoors, especially with nature. There's nothing like feeling the warmth of the morning sun on your skin, seeing waves in the ocean, sand between your toes, leaves falling from swaying branches of trees, and watching sunsets (oh sunsets)... you get the picture. It won't always be in good weather but let's just not think about that. :) hehe

I will not go through every detail of the hike and I will let the pictures speak for themselves. But before that, a few things worth mentioning:

The Temperature

I expected it to be very cold but I didn't actually have an idea how extremely cold it would be until I woke up at one in the morning shivering like crazy. I already had on three layers of clothing (base, fleece, wool material) but still not enough. Grabbing my thickest and last piece of jacket was even a struggle because I didn't want to move even an inch to prevent the cold from getting in my sleeping bag and clothes. According to my companions, that was at 9deg C, and that we were still lucky because it had been 7deg C in the two previous weeks. With four layers of top clothing, three bottom layers, two layer fleece gloves, a neck warmer, scarf, bonnet and three pairs of socks, I don't think I have ever worn so many clothes at one time! The cold had been so much of a challenge for me than the entire hike.

The Summit

I thought the temperature at camp would be the coldest it could get but I was wrong. We started hiking to the peak at 3:30 am, the temperature had become bearable while going up, until I finally got to the summit (around 5am), sat down to wait for the sunrise, when I felt the cold hard ground. I wanted to rest my feet so I badly wanted to sit but the ground was soooo cold! As if that's not already cold enough, we felt a soft breeze blowing around us that morning. I thought I was not going to be able to enjoy the view because I couldn't think straight. I even reached for Ces' arms and kind of cuddled beside her because I just had to feel some body warmth on me. That would be the coldest I've ever felt in my life. (I will probably die amidst snow).

The Sunrise

And then slowly, the sun came into view. Its golden edges peeking in the horizon, the sky turns crimson and then gently bathed the sea of clouds with its warm, golden, most beautiful shades of orange, red and yellow light. I forced myself to get up and grab my camera. My fingers were numb and pressing the shutter button was not as easy as it usually is. Nevertheless, I marveled at the spectacular show that mother nature put on in front of me.

I've seen pictures but there is really nothing like seeing something with your own eyes. I am serious when I say that I was a loss for words. I never realize how such a short period of time could take your breath away. I was thinking how I would describe it later on, in this blog, to my family and friends, to anyone who would ask later. How can something be so amazing, beautiful, incredible, spectacular and inspiring at the same time? Only a higher being can create something like that. God is amazing. Yes.

I was able to pause for a moment to admire it. And then it was time to go. Which was such a bummer because I wanted to stay longer! I wanted to feel the warmth of the sunlight on my face longer and stare at the mesmerizing clouds and layers of mountains and valleys and just forget all the problems in the world! But no. It really was time to go. Because we were following a schedule. That's the downside of being in such kind of group. You don't have the time in your hands. Well, there's always next time and by then, I will surely have to plan the trip within my own group so we could have all the time we need at the peak.

You will notice that there were so many people who also joined the hike. It was a weekend and it was the usual time for people who have to do work on weekdays to go up to see the "Sea of Clouds" that Mount Pulag is known for. It was amusing to see how people did their own thing in taking pictures. There were couples, who of course took lovey-dovey shots of themselves, groups of friends huddled together looking up their GoPro Hero camera, and a group of 6-8 guys who stripped down with only their shorts (or probably boxers) left on, raised their hands, doing victorious cries at the camera. Seriously! In that temperature, it had been crazy - but so damn fun cool crazy!

The Lessons

In life, there's always something you learn when you take on a journey, no matter how long or short, you take home something with you. I returned to Singapore with a happy heart (and some aching muscles). I had no regrets taking such a long journey just to spend about two hours at the summit. It's not really just about that particular moment but the entire trip. In four days, I had proven to myself that I don't have to rely on others to set forth and execute a plan. Relying on people will just slow you down and compromise plans. If people want to join you, they will make an effort to keep up.

More of what I was glad of was meeting people along the way, especially those you share common interests with. I met Ces who is also a Filipina working in Singapore and took a trip just to go up Mount Pulag. And I met Steve, who was also my bus seatmate (who was so helpful to me I can't even say thank you enough), who is a nurse who likes to travel on his own, and Shama, who is an American chemical engineer who is assigned to work in Manila for a year and decided to hike up Pulag because she felt she's too out of shape and needed to do some more hiking.

And so thankful for my college batchmates, who were so kind to spare their time and have dinner with me before sending me off at the bus terminal. Thanks Doy, Jez and Choi! The coffee wasn't enough to thank you guys! They said they've never seen this side of me before and that I've changed. For the better, I hope.

So hey! Now I can check off an item in my resolution for this year: see new places and meet new people.

All photos shot using a Nikon D90 with 35mm 1.8D lens, Fujifilm X10 and iPhone 4s.

Thanks for reading!